How to Make a Lolita Style Hair Bow

I recently received a custom order on my Etsy shop, Silk Thimble, for a gray Lolita style head bow. While it's a simple project, I thought people might like to see the steps I've come up with.

This is a basic, two-layer "bow" which is actually two rectangles gathered together with a faux knot and mounted on a covered headband. It's a popular hair bow style amongst Lolita fans - I based it on accessories I've seen from the Japanese name brands. It's pretty simple but does require precision and some hand stitching to finish.

Supplies

• Fabric - I used a Moda cotton; you only need 1/4-1/2 yard per bow, depending on size and whether or not you're making a matching, covered headband
• Thread
• Lace - I'm using a 1/2" wide French maline lace; about 30"
• Plastic headband - to hold bow on head; can also use various styles of hair clips that I discuss below

 The headband I'm using as a base.

Tools

• Scissors
• Point turner
• Iron
• Hand sewing needles
• Tape measure
• Marking tool (chalk, disappearing marker, etc.); test on your fabric!
• Sewing machine (optional)
• Rotary cutter, cutting mat, and straight edge ruler (optional)

Cutting Pieces
I highly recommend using a rotary cutter and cutting mat for this project. You will be cutting simple rectangles, and the rotary cutter is really fast and very precise is this case. But it's not required! Just measure and mark carefully before cutting out.

The finished measurements of this bow are

• Upper layer: 7.75" x 3.75"
• Lower layer: 9" x 5.25"
• Knot: 1" wide

I decided to use a 1/2" seam allowance and so cut out three rectangles to these sizes:

• 8.75" x 8.5"
• 10" x 11.5"
• 2.5" x 6" (the length really only needs to be about 3"-4" but I find the longer length easier to work with; I simply trim the excess as I finish the project)

Use the grid on your cutting mat to help cut out the fabric accurately.

If you're using a hair clip or bobby pins, that's all you need. But if you want to attach the bow to a matching covered headband, you will also need to cut a bias strip based on the size of your base.  The wide spot of my headband is 1" wide, and it's about 13" long.  Measure around the headband to account for its thickness.  I used a doubled layer for a nicer finish and allowed about 1" at either end for hemming.  So I needed a bias strip at least 4" wide x 15" long.  The rotary cutter and ruler make cutting bias strips really easy:

Designed for quilters, a rotary cutter, cutting mat, and quilting ruler make cutting accurate bias strips very easy.

So here's everything all set to go:

Stitching

Fold each of the two larger rectangles in half.  The folded edge of the smaller one should be 8.75" long, while the folded edge of the larger one should be 10" long.  Stitch using a 1/2" seam from one folded edge to the other, turning at the corners and breaking (with back stitching) at the center of the long edge to leave a spot for turning.

Press and trim the seam, clipping the corners.  Turn, using a point turner.  Press.  Repeat for each bow layer.

Here's a couple shots using that odd turning device I show in the above video.  It's called a Point and Tube Turner, by the way, in case you're looking for one.  I know they have them at Nancy's Notions and The Sewing Place.

The blunt end is inserted through the opening into a corner.  Close the tool.

Gently pull the fabric up and over the side with the taper point, bringing the corner through the opening.  Use your hands and a bamboo or plastic turner to finish the job and get clean corners and edges.

Applying the Lace
If using a sewing machine, the upper thread should match the lace with the bobbin matching the fabric.  I'm pretty experienced and so don't so a lot of pinning ahead of time.  I also do the mitering as I go along.  Use whatever method you're comfortable with, but this is how I did this project.

The first round of stitching will all be at the outer edge of the bow.  I applied the lace to the lower, larger bow layer.

Start at the center of the long edge with the turning opening.  I put the lace about 1/8" away from the edge of the fabric, but use whatever placement you like.  Stitch in the header (the denser edge) to the corner, stopping the same distance from the edge as you've been stitching. So, here, I'm 1/8" from the right hand edge, so I stop about 1/8" from the corner.  Make sure the needle is down.  Keep the needle in place during the next steps.

Lift the presser foot and turn the work 90 degrees.  Bring the free end of the lace around and place the correct distance from the edge.  Allow the excess in the corner to pop up for the moment.  Pin the lace about 1" from the corner.  Use your bamboo pointer tool to gently tuck the excess lace under the new side you're working on, forming a neat miter.

Turn the work and bring the lace around to the next side.  Pin.  Note the bit of excess lace left by the turn.  This needs to be formed into a mitered corner.

Tuck the lace underneath.  It should be a nice, neat right triangle. 

Continue stitching along the outer edge, mitering each corner, until you get back to the starting point.  I like to turn under the end of the lace just in case it should ever show.

Stitch around the inner edge of the lace, pivoting at the corners.

Pivot at the inner corners, making sure to keep the needle in the DOWN position.

Your corners should end up like this:

You can carefully hand stitch along the folded edge of the lace using matching thread to secure it.  You will need only a few tiny stitches - just be sure to conceal the knots. I like to use silk thread because it disappears so beautifully.

Covering the Headband
If you're using a matching headband, you have to hand stitch the bias strip around the base.  I must admit I find this step the most tedious by far:  since my headband base is tapered at the ends, I've found it difficult to cover by machine and so have to hand stitch it to get a tight fit.

Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press.  Fit and pin around the headband base.  You will probably have to trim the cut edge to get a neat finish if your form is also tapered.  Stitch in place with the folded edge running down the center of the under side (or as close as you can get it!).  Just before reaching each end, tuck the ends under to hide all raw edges.

Assembly and Finishing
Fold and press the small knot rectangle lengthwise to a finished width of about 1" by folding the long raw edges slightly over the center point toward each other.  There is no need to stitch it.

Put the smaller layer of the bow in place on top of the lower layer.  Mark the center line from front to back by creasing or using a chalk marker.  Hand stitch together in a small-to-medium length running stitch (depending on your fabric's thickness), securing at the starting point.  Pull gently to gather.  Secure.  It can be helpful to back stitch the gathers from the underside to control them.

Put the gathered bow in place on the headband and wrap the knot rectangle around it.  Cut to length and turn under about 1/4" on one short end.  Stitch.  If you're careful and don't stitch the bow or knot to the fabric of the headband, you will actually be able to slid it off to use elsewhere.  Of course, if you want to prevent it from sliding out of place, just make sure to catch the headband fabric while stitching the knot ends.

Bow and knot gathered and stitched to headband.

There's a couple of alternatives to the headband for wearing a head bow.  You can use alligator clips - which require you to only slide the bow onto the clip through the knot loop - or stitch on a French clip or pin back.  You can even combine them on one bow.

Clockwise from left: alligator clips; French clip; pin back.

And here's the finished product!

Hope you found this tutorial useful.  Let me know if you have any questions!